Crazy Critters Inc. is a Non-Profit, 501(c)3, Private Exotic Animal Rescue, Sanctuary, and Conservancy.
This Wildlife Facility is located in Eustis, Florida. Crazy Critters Inc. was established to provide non-domestic, non-releasable animals with a safe and permanent home. At the moment the facility houses animals including lizards, turtles, skinks, geckos, and birds.
Animals are not on display as in a zoo setting, instead, we provide animal education during private events.
On top of keeping a moderate humidity level in the enclosure, all baby red-footed tortoises raised indoors should have access to a humid hiding area where they can snuggle in and get a dose of humidity, much like they would in a natural burrow. This more humid microclimate helps their shells to grow smoothly and helps in keeping the tortoise hydrated. Tortoises raised without proper humidity tend to dehydrate quickly and form “bumpy” shells as they grow.
Many different substrates can be used for indoor red-footed tortoise enclosures. For all sizes of tortoise, cypress mulch has proven to be a great bedding. It’s absorbent, safe and relatively low cost. Other good options include coconut coir or peat moss. Outdoor enclosures don’t need fancy substrates, provided that the soil is natural and not tainted with any chemicals or fertilizers. We also include a few large, flat rocks in the enclosure. They help file down the tortoises’ nails and give them a clean surface for food.
The needs of redfoot hatchlings and juveniles are in a similar fashion to that of adults. However, they are much more sensitive to drafts and dehydration. Breeders often keep them on dry substrates and feed improperly which leads to pyramiding at an early age.
Lighting is very important for normal growth and behavior. Some of the better lightings are the new ZooMed Powersun bulbs These are used extensively in zoos. The 100-watt flood is the most commonly used. While they do put out heat you may need to add a ceramic heat emitter to get the right temperature.
The temperature of an indoor enclosure should be kept between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (80 to 85 is optimal, slightly lower at nighttime is okay). A UVB lamp is important for your overall Redfoot Tortoise care for their long-term health because it simulates natural light. You should also provide a heat lamp that creates a warmer area (85 to 90 degrees) where your redfoot tortoise can bask.
An outdoor pen is actually better from a Redfoot Tortoise care perspective as long as your climate is humid and the temperature doesn’t go below 60 or above 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Babies should be brought inside if the temperature falls below 70. Adults can handle temperatures down to 60 degrees, but they must be brought inside whenever it gets cooler.
The foundation for a healthy redfoot tortoise hatchling diet is high calcium greens, weeds, and flowers. We keep cuttlebone with them at all times. Many feel that low-fat cat food is an important source of “animal” protein or use commercial products such as Mazuri tortoise chow, We trust our vet and they feel its better to offer them a diet that is similar to what they find in nature. Since the juveniles and adults kept in outdoor pens readily eat insects such as sowbugs, worms, slugs etc, it makes sense to provide the babies with the same variety.
We Adopt ~ Breed ~ Rescue ~ Transport ~ Rehabilitate
Crazy Critters Inc. is a Private Non-Profit, 501(c)3, Exotic Animal Rescue and Sanctuary. Our Wildlife Facility is located in Eustis, Florida. We provide permanent homes to over 200 animals including lizards, turtles, skinks, geckos, birds, and assorted wildlife. Crazy Critters Inc. was established to provide non-domestic, non-releasable animals with a safe and permanent home.
Mostly Tortoises and Turtles call Crazy Critters Inc. home. What makes us unique is that after adoption, Crazy Critters Inc. continues to share the lives of the pets on social media. Providing an additional continued connection. When an animal finds its way to Crazy Critters, it has found a forever home.
Everyone in our community benefits when donors put their funds together to help protect animals and our environment. And the fact that the animals can call this a forever home makes it that much better. Your monetary donations help provide veterinary care, food, and supplies to the animals in our care.
In keeping with our commitment to a quality life for the animals here at the sanctuary, we provide a diet created specifically for each animal’s needs, the best veterinary care, enrichment programs for the animals, and maintain their spacious, safe habitats.
Click DONATE to make a safe Paypal Transaction, of any amount. Every single dollar adds up! We will contact you by email to see how you would like your sponsorship recognized. We appreciate our community! We are always looking for corporate sponsors who believe in a mission such as ours
What do you do when you have a tortoise that is not feeling well? To date, there have been very few pharmacokinetic studies published in reptiles, and with only limited numbers of antibiotics. So far, all of the studies have been done on snakes, turtles, and crocodilians. There have been no pharmacokinetic studies done on lizards.
There are a number of factors that must be considered when choosing an antibiotic. The results of microbiological culture and sensitivity testing, the species being treated, the physical condition of the patient, frequency of administration, cost of the therapy, owner compliance, and a host of other factors are all important.
The veterinary clinician must have a thorough understanding of reptile physiology and biology prior to administering medications. Since all reptiles are ectotherms, and their metabolism is temperature dependent, they will often react unpredictably to the same drug in different settings. A good working knowledge of the more common species of reptiles, their life histories, and their peculiarities will help prevent potential disasters during therapy. General considerations Before treatment is initiated the patient should be given a thorough exam including a CBC and serum profile, with a uric acid, to assess hydration status.
Dehydrated or hyperuricemic patients should be properly rehydrated prior to initiating therapy. It is the rare case that cannot wait for one to two days to assure appropriate hydration prior to treatment. However, if for some reason treatment must be instigated immediately, it would behoove the practitioner to choose a non-nephrotoxic drug. Another important consideration is the ambient temperature of the reptile’s environment.
Pharmacokinetic studies have shown that an increase in ambient temperature tends to increase both the volume of distribution and body clearance of the drug. A decrease in ambient temperature with a resultant decrease in body clearance could potentially allow a build up in the concentration of the drug to a point where it might reach toxic levels if dosing is not decreased accordingly.
We Adopt ~ Breed ~ Rescue ~ Transport ~ Rehabilitate
Crazy Critters Inc. is a Private Non-Profit, 501(c)3, Exotic Animal Rescue and Sanctuary. Our Wildlife Facility is located in Eustis, Florida. We provide permanent homes to over 200 animals including lizards, turtles, skinks, geckos, birds, and assorted wildlife. Crazy Critters Inc. was established to provide non-domestic, non-releasable animals with a safe and permanent home.
Mostly Tortoises and Turtles call Crazy Critters Inc. home. What makes us unique is that after adoption, Crazy Critters Inc. continues to share the lives of the pets on social media. Providing an additional continued connection. When an animal finds its way to Crazy Critters, it has found a forever home.
Everyone in our community benefits when donors put their funds together to help protect animals and our environment. And the fact that the animals can call this a forever home makes it that much better. Your monetary donations help provide veterinary care, food, and supplies to the animals in our care.
In keeping with our commitment to a quality life for the animals here at the sanctuary, we provide a diet created specifically for each animal’s needs, the best veterinary care, enrichment programs for the animals, and maintain their spacious, safe habitats.
Click DONATE to make a safe Paypal Transaction, of any amount. Every single dollar adds up! We will contact you by email to see how you would like your sponsorship recognized. We appreciate our community! We are always looking for corporate sponsors who believe in a mission such as ours
SHARE THIS AND HELP US WITH THIS SOCIAL MEDIA WORLD!
The red-footed tortoise (Chelonoidis carbonaria) has a vast range in northern South America. This reptile has been popular with tortoise keepers because it is a medium-sized tortoise that seldom grows larger than 15 inches in captivity.
Typically, they begin breeding when they reach 6” to 8” long, (roughly 7-to 8 years old) although at that size their eggs are often infertile and the clutches are smaller than fully-adult redfoot tortoises would produce. Breeding immature redfoots is possible, but you’re more likely to get fertile eggs and healthy hatchlings if you stick to breeding mature tortoises, ones 10+ years old.
In the past Redfoots have been imported from farms in Venezuela and Brazil, and from the Guyana/Suriname area, where they are taken from the wild. To the best of my knowledge, wild-caught (WC) specimens now account for very few of the tortoises available today, in comparison to the 1970s thru 1990s, when they were imported by the thousands from Colombia, in particular, as well as Guyana/Suriname. Redfoots are still exported in relatively small numbers, but private breeders are now providing greater numbers of hatchlings.
One of the most important aspects of successful redfoot tortoise breeding is feeding your tortoises a varied, nutritious diet. Some owners involved in redfoot tortoise breeding report seeing the largest clutches and highest hatch rates when tortoises are fed a wide variety of leafy vegetables, fruits, and vegetables. Sine keepers provide their breeding groups of tortoises an animal-based protein once a week as part of the overall diet.
Redfoots not being bred should only be fed animal protein rarely and no more than every other week. Animal-based protein can come from chopped boiled eggs, grubs, snails, slugs, worms, boiled chicken or shrimp, or even salmon or tuna canned in water. An inadequate diet can contribute to small clutches, infertile eggs, incompletely developed embryos, and hatchlings that fail to thrive despite receiving good care.
Male redfoots have a concave plastron, while the plastron of females tends to be much flatter. Males also have longer tails and a much wider, flatter anal notch in their plastron. Some males have a narrow “waist” that gives them a shape that resembles a large peanut when seen from above.
Typically, a male interested in mating will begin by walking closely behind a female. He then circles the female repeatedly, sticks out his head so that it’s close to her face, and jerks his head rapidly from side to side. Shoving, ramming, and biting can be involved. When “the time is right” he’ll position himself and mount her from the rear. The concavity of his plastron lets it fit snugly over the top of her shell. During copulation, the male will make a series of unusual grunts or clucking sounds. The clucking is so loud anyone in earshot will swear they’re hearing chickens.
Incubate Those Eggs
Redfoot tortoise breeding can occur at virtually any time of the year, but most breeders say it tends to take place either during or just after a rain. There are many reports that more than one male is needed for successful redfoot tortoise breeding – the presence of at least two males appears to stimulate the urge to reproduce. Others think only one male is necessary for successful redfood tortoise breeding.
In the wild, some female red-footed tortoises deposit eggs in leaf litter on the forest floor, but others excavate a nest before laying eggs. Nest size varies greatly, but the average is around 6 inches deep. Although captive tortoises will lay eggs on the enclosure floor, provide a nestbox large enough for the female to easily move around.
Red-footed tortoise eggs can be incubated a variety of ways. I place them on flat, damp paper towels within a plastic shoebox measuring 12 inches long, 10 inches wide and 4 inches tall. Approximately 60 holes measuring a one-eighth inch in diameter are drilled into the ends and sides of the box. A nonventilated lid fits on top.
Once she starts laying her eggs she also goes into a trance, so keep any other tortoises away from her and do not disturb her until she has dropped her eggs and completely covered the nest and walked away. When the female deposits her eggs, dig them up carefully. Partially bury the eggs in small plastic food containers in an incubator (get yourself a Hovabator, which will cost you around $30, last for years, and work like a charm) that’s been filled halfway with moist vermiculite.
Set the incubator’s temperature between 84 and 88 degrees Fahrenheit. At 84, you’ll get male hatchlings; at 88 you’ll get females; at 86 you’ll get some of both. We set it at 85-86 and don’t worry about the sex. The humidity in the incubator should be kept at a constant 70% to 90% (we fill a small cup or bowl of water to maintain this humidity level). The incubation period ranges from 120 to 190 days, but the average is typically 145 to 150 days. Lastly, like all tortoise and turtles the older the female, the higher percentage of hatchlings. At age, 8-10 expect a 25-50% hatch rate. If you’re lucky enough to get one to 35-50 years old you’d likely see an 85-100% hatch rate.
We Adopt ~ Breed ~ Rescue ~ Transport ~ Rehabilitate
Crazy Critters Inc. is a Private Non-Profit, 501(c)3, Exotic Animal Rescue and Sanctuary. Our Wildlife Facility is located in Eustis, Florida. We provide permanent homes to over 200 animals including lizards, turtles, skinks, geckos, birds, and assorted wildlife. Crazy Critters Inc. was established to provide non-domestic, non-releasable animals with a safe and permanent home.
Mostly Tortoises and Turtles call Crazy Critters Inc. home. What makes us unique is that after adoption, Crazy Critters Inc. continues to share the lives of the pets on social media. Providing an additional continued connection. When an animal finds its way to Crazy Critters, it has found a forever home.
Everyone in our community benefits when donors put their funds together to help protect animals and our environment. And the fact that the animals can call this a forever home makes it that much better. Your monetary donations help provide veterinary care, food, and supplies to the animals in our care.
In keeping with our commitment to a quality life for the animals here at the sanctuary, we provide a diet created specifically for each animal’s needs, the best veterinary care, enrichment programs for the animals, and maintain their spacious, safe habitats.
Click DONATE to make a safe Paypal Transaction, of any amount. Every single dollar adds up! We will contact you by email to see how you would like your sponsorship recognized. We appreciate our community! We are always looking for corporate sponsors who believe in a mission such as ours
SHARE THIS AND HELP US WITH THIS SOCIAL MEDIA WORLD!
The veterinary clinician must have a thorough understanding of reptile physiology and biology prior to administering medications. Since all reptiles are ectotherms, and their metabolism is temperature dependent, they will often react unpredictably to the same drug in different settings. A good working knowledge of the more common species of reptiles, their life histories, and their peculiarities will help prevent potential disasters during therapy. General considerations Before treatment is initiated the patient should be given a thorough exam including a CBC and serum profile, with a uric acid, to assess hydration status.
immediately, it would behoove the practitioner to choose a non-nephrotoxic drug. Another important consideration is the ambient temperature of the reptile’s environment.
One of the most important aspects of successful redfoot tortoise breeding is feeding your tortoises a varied, nutritious diet. Some owners involved in redfoot tortoise breeding report seeing the largest clutches and highest hatch rates when tortoises are fed a wide variety of leafy vegetables, fruits, and vegetables. Sine keepers provide their breeding groups of tortoises an animal-based protein once a week as part of the overall diet.
In the wild, some female red-footed tortoises deposit eggs in leaf litter on the forest floor, but others excavate a nest before laying eggs. Nest size varies greatly, but the average is around 6 inches deep. Although captive tortoises will lay eggs on the enclosure floor, provide a nestbox large enough for the female to easily move around.